How Long To Let Cuttings Callus

Today's post is a highly requested one + after chatting to some of you recently, I wanted to put together a post that compiles your frequently asked propagation questions in more detail, in a place that y'all can easily refer dorsum to.

You lot volition probably know by now that propagation is an aspect of plant care that I particularly love. Information technology's too a part that new institute lovers tin can be quite intimidated by. Merely I'yard pretty certain that once y'all've had a couple of successful propagations, your confidence will grow + y'all might desire to start experimenting with taking cuttings of other types of plants in your collection.

* There's a propagation tab on the H O U South E P Fifty A N T H O U S E homepage, and then if this is a topic that interests you, please have a wait through some of the other posts I've written! This post besides follows on from last week'south 1 about my favourite houseplants to propagate.

In today'southward post, we will be going through the propagation process in order: from chopping upwardly, to planting the cuttings + at each phase, I'll be answering the common queries as we become.

Nosotros'll be discussing:

Taking cuttings from your plants.
Preparing your plants for propagation.
The propagation process.
From propagation to potting upwards.

Permit'due south get into it…

one. Taking cuttings from your plants.

Why take cuttings?

First of all, allow's take a minute to accost why chopping up a establish might be a adept thought! Disclaimer: this decision is entirely up to you lot, so please don't feel similar you need to hack up all of your plants as an experiment! As well, yous really don't need to cutting your plant severely — a little trim volition suffice if you would like to endeavour your paw at propagating something. It's worth saying that chopping your plant isn't the only way to propagate — at that place are a few options, but propagation past division is perhaps the other commonly expert manner to grow your collection. In many ways it is more straightforward because you are essentially but splitting/dividing up a crowded pot into multiple new plants. This works really well for plants with an upright growth habit similar the marantaceae family, aglaonema, aspidistra, monsteras etc — you have to be careful to not harm the roots but it'due south a good culling to consider. I've divided up trailing plants in this way likewise, like my philodendron brasil + I besides made a new small ceropegia plant past division concluding year.

The main reasons to have cuttings from your plant are:

It might accept grown into a shape that does not look like how you would like it to look (or that it is taking upwardly also much room!)
Possibly you desire to multiply your plant collection by making new plants from cuttings for yourself or even better, to share with friends.
You know the constitute doesn't practise well for y'all during the colder months and so you want to make a support establish (I do this often)
Role of the institute looks like it is struggling + you lot want to divide information technology upwardly or take cuttings + propagate from healthy stems.

Trailing plants are super popular online, only exist warned, in that location's that heady 'prime' time between a pot just starting to trail + maturing into a nicely full-looking, verdurous vision tumbling off your shelf… After this bespeak however, these sorts of hanging or trailing plants can start to await past their best — they start to get a petty stretched out; the weight of the long stems causing those in one case cheerful leaves to look more tired + lacklustre. Long stems are neat if you want to railroad train the vines forth your walls or ceiling to create a jungle looking space, simply in the long term, the leaves might begin to look a little tired.

These types of plants then, are excellent choices for potential propagations — I'chiliad thinking of the varieties of pothos, scindapsus, rhaphidophora, trailing philodendrons etc. The success charge per unit is also pretty loftier for these too, then it's a neat identify to start.

How do I accept cuttings from my plants?

When taking cuttings, y'all desire to be sure to apply a sterile, sharp blade. If the bract is a bit blunt, it can 'drag' across the stem + create a jagged edge. A clean, precipitous cutting is best. Always sterilise your tools after use so that they are set for next time + store in a clean, dry identify. Using whatsoever old snips you might find hanging effectually could have traces on them that could crusade the cutting to get infected or rotten. Also, exist aware that thicker stemmed plants such as philodendrons tin can sometimes 'drain' when cut, and so make sure you sterilise the snips before using them on another establish.

For smaller, thinner stemmed plants such as my tradescantia fluminensis, I don't have individual leafage cuttings, but instead will cut the ends off long stems. You lot'll want to strip the leaves at the base of the stem as in the photo below. Even if yous cut the plant correct back, don't throw abroad the original pot, because new growth will appear in this pot too from where the cuts were fabricated!

Here'due south a clickable link to the specific guide I put together to show the process of how to make a new tradescantia institute from cuttings.

I've taken some cuttings… what do I do now?

If you have cut a couple of long stems, you can choose whether to chop them up into individual leaves (for plants like pothos + scindapsus) or keep them every bit little stems with a few leaves on (including the end of the stem like with my pinkish tradescantia cuttings above). Here are some examples of the process of rooting leaf cuttings of my scindapsus + monstera adansonii:

two. Preparing your plants for propagation.

Leaving the cuttings to callus

This is a office of the procedure that I don't run across mentioned much online + is frequently a skipped pace for new plant lovers. The master question I get near propagating cuttings (especially in water) is how to cease them failing or rotting earlier rooting. Aside from ensuring yous pick healthy cuttings to root, allowing the cut to 'seal over' is a helpful part in this process considering it creates a thin 'barrier' of protective tissue between the open cut + the water/soil/etc. Not every gardener does this + as with propagation techniques, it comes down to the plant in question + too personal preference.

The thing nigh this process is that the fourth dimension for callusing the stem can vary quite considerably, depending on the plant… from a few hours to months! For the average houseplant enthusiast though, you won't accept to wait this long. Plants with thin stems + delicate leaves can react adversely if the cutting is left bated also long (more details on propagating thinner stemmed cuttings later on in the mail). Mostly, the thicker or more 'succulent'/ woody the stem, the longer this process will take (more on cacti + succulents later).

Photos below evidence the process of rooting this Hoya linearis cut I took off my master found over 12 months:

How long should I go out my plant callus over?

I've detailed some of my experiences here for reference, ranging from the shortest time I leave the cutting to callus, to the plants that have the longest.

* All timings are an approximate guide + what works in my conditions in the Northern Hemisphere. If propagating in winter, I'll sometimes give succulent stems a few extra days to seal.

Cord of Hearts / Ceropegia woodii — 12-48 hours
Sparse stemmed tradescantia (similar fluminensis etc) — 12-48hours
Thicker stemmed tradescantia (zebrina) — 48 hours
Pilea peperomioides babies — 48-72 hours (blogpost on that here)
Monstera adansonii — 48-72 hours
Pothos, scindapsus etc — 48-72 hours
Rhaphidophora —48-72 hours
Hoyas (linearis etc) — iii-4days (more on that here)
Rhipsalis — 3-4days
Precious stone orchids — 72 hours
Thicker stemmed philodendrons, monsteras — five-7 days
Epiphyllum/selenicereus — 5-7days (more info linked here)
Sansevieria/ dracaena/ snake plants —five-7 days (blogpost on that here)
Succulents (echeveria etc) 5-7days (blogpost on that here)
Zamioculcas zamiifolia stems — 1 week + (blogpost on that here)
Larger Cacti + Succulents (Euphorbia etc) — a few weeks-a few months!

Notation: The cuttings in the photo in a higher place left are a practiced example of why information technology'south always worth a shot when trying to root something. I received these cuttings every bit a lovely constitute postal service from Sweden but on their way to the UK, they got lost in the post for 3 weeks. In example you wondered, they are a Selenicereus chrysocardium (fern leaf cactus), Selenicereus anthonyanus + a Hoya pubicalyx. I successfully water propagated them all + fast forrard a few years to today + they are three of my favourite houseplants!

Callusing cacti + succulents

Thick succulents like euphorbias + cacti can accept a few months to properly callus + they are generally a more than hard institute to attempt to propagate without rotting. I tried this a few years ago with a euphorbia trigona that was effectually 10cm diameter + can ostend it took 2 months to fully seal over. I wouldn't recommend trying this over winter — wait until Spring + when the institute has a menstruation of active growth ahead.

These photos show a snake plant leaf that is ready for propagation. You tin meet where the cutting has hardened in these photos. This means the roots can form with a decreased chance of the cutting rotting. An inverted V-shape provides a greater area for roots to grow (more in my snake constitute prop postal service) :

If yous are planning on experimenting with propagating more difficult plants like euphorbia succulents + other cacti, information technology'southward important to exist wearing protective gear because when you cut these plants, a milky-white, latex sap volition weep out of the cutting. This is an irritant, so be extra conscientious with your hands + face, particularly your eyes + your oral fissure + you can lessen the oozing by dipping the cutting in cold h2o or apply a spray bottle (protect your face if you lot do this) if you tin can't safely move the plant. An alternative pick is to use a flame that will cauterise the cutting.

Here are some examples of water + soil propagation for these 2 types of sedum succulent cuttings:

In the 4 photos above, I permit these cuttings callus for a calendar week before removing the lower leaves + placing in a pot of cacti + succulent potting mix. I didn't touch these, but after a few weeks, I could feel them stabalise in the piddling pot + later on a few months, they were growing, the photograph to the correct is how they were looking this summer (around 12 months later I think).

As y'all can see in the photos below, I immune the sedum morganianum stem to fully callus before placing in h2o + as an experiment, I left it rooting for effectually 9 months to see what would happen. The roots grew long + afterward around vi months, a new plant really started growing underwater! The photo on the right shows the other stems that I propagated direct into soil. On the acme of the surface, you can also see I laid some of the succulent leaves downwardly + subsequently around iii months, new pups started forming. These are just starting to grow roots into the soil to anchor themselves in.

3. The propagation procedure

Choosing what propagation media to use

Propagation techniques are personal preference: whether you like to propagate your plants in water or soil, perlite or sphagnum moss is up to yous + at that place are oftentimes a number of factors that will influence this — the plant in question, your lifestyle + household conditions too.

Every bit a guide, I utilise a variety of propagation media + methods for different reasons:

SOIL MIX: I like to use soil propagation for some of my foliage plants. I will use houseplant potting mix with a little bit of perlite in + I've plant this media skilful for Aureate POTHOS, PILEA PEPEROMIOIDES + TRADESCANTIA ZEBRINA, Cord OF HEARTS.

COCO COIR: Mesomorphic coco coir (mesomorphic is the key hither) is a skillful culling to soil propagation as information technology is gives nice amounts of aeration to the developing roots + is a good pick for plants that like a fiddling more than humidity around them similar PHILODENRONS, EPIPHYLLUM, MONSTERA etc.

PERLITE: I volition use direct up perlite for rosette succulents like ECHEVERIA, CRASSSULA etc.

SPHAGNUM MOSS: I tend to apply Sphagnum for my Precious stone ORCHIDS (ludisia discolor + macodes petola), MONSTERA ADANSONII, POTHOS, PHILODENDRON + SCINDAPSUS cuttings also.

H2o: H2o propagation is my most used method, quite just because I enjoy the procedure of watching roots grow! It's a great mode to observe how unlike houseplants carry + the different types of roots, from the fibrous fine ones to the more than chunky. I use information technology for a whole range of plants + if I'm in doubt, information technology'southward the method I will turn to.

NOTE: It is inevitable that at that place are champions of each method (specially on social media) but with so much conflicting advice, it can atomic number 82 to confusion + the feeling that y'all are 'doing it wrong'. I encourage you to discover what works for yous + what yous savor!

The question of humidity

Thinner stemmed plants that take delicate leaves such every bit tradescantia fluminensis can sometimes neglect in propagation due to a lack of humidity. If I'm propagating cuttings like my thinner stemmed tradescantia, I'll generally water propagate as I notice them to cope well in vessels in regular household conditions (my business firm is old + pretty humid without whatever humidifiers) while they root. If I propagate straight into potting mix, I will place a bag over my potted cuttings to create a 'mini greenhouse' environment, or apply a cloche or propagator. This can assistance the leaves from crisping up + create a favourable environment for rooting. I also practice this for my other foliage plants if I want to encourage them forth a fleck.

You tin can easily make a propagation box or lid out of an old nutrient container (make certain it is clean), or by cutting a big bottle in half and placing equally a hat over the pot, large yogurt pots, etc. I've successfully used a articulate old tiffin box to grow cacti from seed over the last few years + it takes up very little room on my windowsill also. I've written more about re-using + re-purposing what you take at home as gardening 'equipment' here + an older i here if you'd like some inspiration!

Where do I put the cuttings to root?

Whatever method you choose to propagate, keeping your cuttings in a fairly bright, indirect light position is all-time. If the location is too dark, growth volition exist pretty wearisome + the cutting might start to stretch out to wait for calorie-free. In a spot that is besides vivid, the cutting could dry out before rooting or the leaves of the cut could burn + well-baked. Many of my cuttings are around 1 metre from a south-east facing window, with the light diffused by a internet drape.

If you are water propping, fill up your container with fresh water so that the stems are well covered. I don't add together anything to the h2o. If it'due south warm, you might need to superlative up your bottles every few days as the water evaporates — make sure the stems aren't sitting in an empty vessel equally they tin can showtime to sweat… this can atomic number 82 to the cuttings rotting. Try to change the water around once a calendar week if you call up.

4. From propagation to potting up

My cuttings are rooting… but when do I pot them?!

If yous have successfully propagated your cuttings in water, perlite, sphagnum or coco, later on a time, you'll want to pot them up into a potting mix that can provide your little plant with nutrients to assistance it grow to be healthy + strong. I wait until roots are 1-2 inches long before considering planting up, sometimes a little longer (if I get out a jar rooting + forget… like I recently did with a philodendron basil vine!). I often get asked 'can't I just leave my plant in h2o?!' or 'How long will my plant last in water?' + the answer is yes you tin, BUT if the purpose of rooting the cutting is to grow it on, or do something with it, then information technology'south best not to get out the roots get crazy long. Purely for experiments' sake, I've grown a spider plant in a jar for over a year + it was cool to look at, only it didn't flourish as much as if I'd planted it.

Transitioning your cuttings + potting up

If I take room in my propagator, I will frequently put my newly potted cuttings in there for a few weeks to help them settle into their pot. It helps at this stage to go on the humidity upwards as they transition, specially when moving from water to soil. If calorie-free levels permit, the bathroom or kitchen are also areas to consider placing your newly potted up plants as they are oftentimes warmer + more than humid environments. The plant will detect the modify in pH and it tin can take a bit of time for it to adjust, so if you can keep the surrounding conditions steady during this time, your constitute will appreciate it.

Water roots are different to soil roots + it'due south function of the reason when some gardeners prefer to root direct into soil. I would recommend using a minor pot to begin because I much prefer a number of modest re-pots than starting off with a cutting that is in a pot that is too large. This increases the chances of the cutting failing because it's easier for the cut to get overwatered like this. I always have smaller pots hanging around too + they are easier to fit into a propagator or onto a shelf. Y'all'll know when the cuttings have 'taken' to the potting mix by giving the stem a very gentle tug after a few weeks — they will feel sturdy + anchored into the planter equally the roots develop. Only re-rot when the roots are circumvoluted effectually the base of the existing pot + don't make whatever dramatic jumps in pot sizes when repotting. Ho-hum + steady is best.

A annotation on fertilising

This is some other common question — should y'all feed your plants shortly after potting? I know the temptation is to fertilise considering you want your establish to become growing already, but information technology's a good idea to hold off fertilising for around vi weeks. This goes for repotting too — waiting until your institute has acclimatised to its new pot is something my grandad taught me + in both cases, this volition allow the new roots to develop a flake + will subtract the run a risk of fertiliser 'burning' them.

At that place we get, a longer postal service today but I know that a few of you enjoy a read + some virtual armchair gardening with your weekend forenoon java. I as well share my current propagation experiments over on my Instagram if you desire to bank check it out. Hope this was helpful + happy propagating!

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Source: https://houseplanthouse.com/2021/01/09/everything-you-ever-wanted-to-know-about-houseplant-propagation/